Château Palmer is an intricate patchwork of skillsets, grape varieties and personalities. The estate was divided into five “islands” four years ago, distinct plots that the teams follow from one season to the next, mastering them with time, experience and ever-deeper roots.
Each section has its own dedicated squad, its specialist winegrower, its mood swings and sense of humour, its pruning style and its harvest. These rich, varied profiles have all been through some dramatic years, and had to cope with the whims of the climate. “We sometimes wear T-shirts in February and woolly hats in April.” But the unpredictable weather has done nothing to dampen their enthusiasm, nor sap their work ethic, which is founded on precision, attentiveness and a love of the earth.
“We sometimes wear t-shirts in February and woolly hats in April.”
Marie — winegrower, Château Palmer
Boston-Boulibranne. In a mixture of jest and pride, Jonathan has named it the “Arctic Circle”. This island is the furthest and wildest on the Château Palmer estate; an enclave fit only for strong hands and hardy souls capable of braving the cold to nurture a young, undisciplined Cabernet-Sauvignon vine planted just twenty years ago. Back in 2017, the frost decimated the harvest. Since then, the plot's crack team led by Stéphanie has refined its strategy to rescue any endangered sections. Their methods now include emergency wind turbines against late frosts, an arsenal of candles lit for the first time in 2021, and regularly spraying the vine with herbal tea. This brigade of adventurous winegrowers and vineyard first-aiders enjoy the reward of working in a unique, wooded setting near the sheep pen. A challenging land, but therefore one of infinite promise.
The 40s-50s. A railway track meanders through this island and its twenty plots, home to a majority of Merlot and a small section of Cabernet and Petit Verdot. This third variety is gentler and easier to prune than the others, but also more sensitive to humidity in a context where there can be “all four seasons in one day”, as Marie often says. She and her colleague Kyllian welcomed a new member this winter. At the age of forty, Bruno has discovered teamwork, the Palmer spirit — “getting the most out of every detail!” — and is astounded by the daily celebration of biodiversity. “Nature recharges its batteries here; you can feel it. The grass is thick, teeming with insects, and the occasional snake…”
Le Cassena. This singular island nestled two miles from the château is bordered by a forest and scattered with fruit trees. This is the estate's “most varied” ensemble, featuring four varieties of white grapes alongside the reds. These vigorous vines each require specific pruning and treatment. Debudding is one particularly delicate stage, consisting of cutting off a vast number of excess branches, often “as thick as Christmas trees”, says Franck, to give an idea of the scale of the task. This valiant Médoc native can count on Isabelle, a former pre-school assistant, who is as skilled at growing vines as she was at raising children. Christine completes this trio, and received twenty roses from the director to celebrate her twentieth year with the estate. All three are unwaveringly loyal to the earth and have a truly extraordinary work ethic.
Le Plateau. These are the oldest vines, lying closest to the estuary and offering the finest wines. The Plateau des Brauzes is also the “cleanest” island, according to the winegrowers, meaning it is a well-known, tamed terroir. It serves as the estate's memory, located just behind the château where the sun rises and the Merlots shine. Aurélie, a former carpenter who is now proud to work with wood's very roots, heads up an enthusiastic team. Every year, they are delighted to “rediscover the same plots” and eager to experiment with new techniques. On plot 46, for example, the number of vine stocks has doubled to reach 20,000 feet per hectare. Meanwhile, on plot 16, the vines are being pruned higher this year and trellised up to six feet. The objective is to develop a better understanding of the ecosystem and work tirelessly to make the vines more resilient and robust. Both a calling and an exultation.
Domec. Driss is one of the guardians of the estate. When he has finished working on the Merlot or Cabernet vines of the Domec island — a total of thirteen hectares between the cellar and the Route des Vins — he sleeps in the village, watches over the château, feeds the animals, and sometimes even helps deliver a calf or a lamb, accompanied by his wife and their three children. Perfectionism is his philosophy, because “it pays off.” “A profound knowledge of the vines makes our job easier,” says Émilie. “We see the results of our work from one year to the next.” The winegrower chose Château Palmer for its pioneering spirit, the absence of pesticides, and its biodynamic approach. Vintage after vintage, the five members of the team watch with satisfaction as the plant learns to stand on its own two feet. The winegrower provides the impetus, and nature follows.
